Monday, 15 November 2010

Catwalk Report - Uni project

Sweet seventies seduction
Marc Jacobs takes us back to the days of disco for Spring/Summer 2011, says Colleen Ross.

In seventies flick Taxi Driver, a very young Jodie Foster tries her hand at seducing a rather unwilling Robert De Niro to no avail. Fast forward 34 years and Foster, dressed in some seriously short coral hot pants, a cropped, tie-front blouse, floppy hat and sunglasses, you know, the typical seventies garb, could so easily have fit in on the runway of Marc Jacobs seventies luxe, Spring/Summer 2011 show.
Whilst Foster’s influence was the most prevalent, it certainly wasn’t Jacobs’ only reference point. Think Jerry Hall holidaying in St. Tropez by day and partying at Studio 54 by night, Faye Dunaway and undoubtedly YSL, the Moroccan years.
The orchestral sound of ‘Summer’, by Vivaldi filled the Lexington Armoury, to introduce the plethora of chic day, beach and glamorous eveningwear to a front row filled with everyone from Alexa Chung to Courtney Love. Jacobs had clearly missed the front row glitterati that he dismissed last season.
The runway soon played host to a reunion of seventies silhouettes with model Luisa Bianchin setting the scene, wearing a striking orange spot, bell sleeved coat and a pair of orchid suede gaucho pants.
Puffy peasant blouses, mid length skirts and high-waisted, flared trousers in orange silk, were truly nostalgic. There were various desirable dress styles, shapes and sumptuous fabrics too. From romantic asymmetric maxis to crinkle taffeta gowns, sheer and embellished, to being emblazoned with geometric prints and Missoni-esque chevron stripes. Meanwhile hot pants came in metallic gold leather and jumpsuits in honeycomb embroidered guipure lace. Jacobs’ opted for a sweet colour scheme, selecting a delicious array of coral and rose pinks, maroon, grape and strawberry red fusions. It was a clear move from his past rather muted collections, particularly his dream-like Autumn/Winter 2010 show. Goodbye subdued serenity, hello disco.
Not to be overshadowed, accessories were intricately decorative. Most models wore Lily corsages around there necks or in their hair, waists were accentuated with thick brown or purple leather belts and feet were adorned with glitter, geisha style platforms, or strappy snake sandals. Gripped in their hands were quilted buttery leather or suede clutch bags, in satchel and semi-circle shapes.
Hair was big and fabulously frizzy à la US Vogue’s Grace Coddington. Oh Marc, flattery will get you everywhere. The look was completed with vampy pale faces, painted plum lips and seductive smoky eyes.
Jacobs’ model army of seventies divas included Jamie Bochert- who stepped out in a glorious statement maroon kaftan dress, complete with embellished neckline- Karlie Kloss, Alessandra Ambrosio and every designers favourite, Freja Beha Erichsen.
Whilst the glamorous nights of disco at Studio 54 are over and Mick Jagger is no longer with Bianca (or Jerry), we can still dream a little dream of the seventies thanks to Marc Jacobs. The king of reinvention has proved once again to be the one we all want.

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